Premades, Promades, Custom hand-made – What’s the difference?

As a lash client as well as a tech it has often bewildered me why lash techs and clients don’t discuss what we are putting on eyes. The average Jane doesn’t know what a pre, pro or custom-made lash is or even what it technically refers to.

Admittedly I don’t really go in-depth with my clients about it either, mainly because I use what I use and my clients trust me to make those decisions for them, and I guess the same should/could be said about other lash techs. But what if my clients move and need to see a new tech – how will I streamline this process for them? The only answer I could come up with is to educate each and every one of my clients about the differences and why I do what I do.

Let me start with what I use. I use a range of options for my clients depending on their budget – after all I am a business and I am working to earn, which means I need to pay myself for my time and skill. This sometimes doesn’t align with my client’s budget. At this point, I usually discuss what we can do to minimise the time I need to spend, whilst giving the client what they want.

The first option I have is the most popular and the highest quality. I refer to these as in-house Promades. Mainly because I make them in-house and customise them to each of my client’s individual lashes – this increases retention and gives the best finish whilst guaranteeing the protection of the natural lash. This option has proven time and time again to create a better finish, a happier client and long LOOONNNGGG retention. Lash God Level Retention.

The second option I have is Promades – how is this different from option one…. Well mainly, I do not make them in-house. In fact I don’t make them at all. I buy them in bulk ready to use. They are still handmade, hence “pro” mades. So because I do not make them and they come ready for me to use and apply, they are limited to use on healthy lashes or lashes that can handle the weight. If I find the client’s lashes cannot I have to either, hand-make my own or jump down thickness, length or density to ensure the lash health is protected. All these things do affect the overall look. Aside from this – they are just as good as my promades. In fact, they are no different from – except their application of them is faster, and I am slightly limited in what I can do as far as customizability to the client.

Premades are not something I carry or recommend. Essentially, unless you know your suppliers and know who their suppliers are… Premades are hit and miss and most of the time cheap and nasty. Especially if they are from the likes of eBay, Ali express etc. So what are premades? These are machine-made lash fans.

In theory, that’s not so bad and I can definitely see the potential in saving beginner lash techs in funds – but a lot of lash techs will also skimp on their training with the intention of forever using premade fans. The reality is the retention of premade fans, in general, is rubbish because they are heat-sealed and machine-made, they do not wrap around the natural lashes like the promades or hand-made lashes do meaning they have an even smaller surface of adherence. The other downside to premades is that the ends (the part that gets glued onto your lash) is clunky, thick and in general uneven – whereas a pro-made has a nice tapered tail due to a professional inspecting and building the fan by hand, a premade is however many extensions stuck together by a machine side by side – making the end chunky and very hard to taper. Whilst the look of the lash is similar to that of a promade, often they become irritating, itchy and even painful to the person wearing them because they have sharp corners… This is even more evident when lashes start to grow out.

Whilst a lot of this information is directed mainly at new lash techs emerging into the industry – it is super important for you as a client to understand what is going on in your body and how it is going to look and affect you long-term. And remember if it doesn’t look right, or smell right it probably isn’t right, no amount of money is worth the aggravation of infected or uncomfortable eyes